This tasting involved six Spanish 1998 Crianzas. Crianzas are typically aged for two years in barrel, followed by a year in bottle, before they are released. The primary grape used is the Tempranillo. Overall, the panel was fairly unimpressed with the wines, with the better ones only deemed decent rather than good.
Alto Zano La Mancha Crianza '98
Surprising as it may be – harking from La Mancha – this wine was actually the best of the tasting. On inspection, it displayed a medium ruby color, with a slightly reddish-brown rim. Swirling revealed a fairly lightweight nose, with hints of alcohol, overlaid by a somewhat floral nose of violet. Fruit characters could be discerned beneath, possibly that of cherry and raspberry. On the attack, the wine was dry, with medium-high tannins but a somewhat softer acidic content. The medium body failed to highlight much fruit character, although perhaps some clove and mild oakiness could be detected in the finish. Certainly a table wine.
Vina Salcèda Rioja Crianza '98
Surprisingly aged visually, this medium-pale rusty red wine had a very promising nose that was medium-pronounced, with almost Burgundian farmyard characteristics. Oaky vanilla could be detected, with hints of coffee, cherry, and violets hiding behind that wood. It was a little more disappointing on the palate; the off dry entry with mild oaky flavors lacked tannins to provide structure to the rather acidic body. The finish provided some promise of raspberry and red cherry, although its potential seems far from fulfilled.
Beronia Rioja Crianza '98
Medium light red with a slight brownish tint. It had a fairly nondescript earthy nose, of dry hay and almond, with a little marzipan, with a tad of cherry underneath the veneer of earthiness. In the mouth, entry with a little acidic, before opening up to a little red cherry on the finish, which was medium in length. Largely forgettable.
Hermanos Lurton Valladolid Crianza '98
A short note on the Hermanos Lurton is in order. Although the wine was very unapproachable when first poured – rotten eggs, pungent bardyard – when left to sit it did improve in the glass to show some stewed fruit. The tannin and acidity were balanced, and perhaps some cherry could be detected over the course of the evening (and with a little nudging from some chicken chop).
Date: Sep 4, 2002
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