This was a portfolio tasting of four wines from Wendouree Cellars Vineyards (Clare Valley, South Australia) collection. The Wendouree style has become virtually synonymous with big Aussie reds, albeit without the premium that some of the more famous houses command. Wines are scarce, and are usually available only either via mail order or at the cellar door. The winery itself is miniscule (by New World standards), a mere 12 hectares, although beholding a treasure of untrellised, unirrigated old vines, some dating back to as far as 1919. We visit the much-lauded 1998 vintage, all blends with the vineyard's mainstay of Syrah (Shiraz), Mouvedre (Mataro), Malbec, and Cabernet Sauvignon.
A.P. Birks Wendouree '98 Shiraz Malbec
This medium-red wine danced around the glass, with a medium-pronounced nose of black pepper, cinnamon, and a hint of lavender, overlaid by jammy raspberry and black cherry. On the palate, however, the wine was decidedly average: medium-high acidity, medium tannin and a light-medium body, with some raspberry coming through, and a disappointing finish. Dinner wine, perhaps, with confit de canard, but certainly not something to write home about.
A.P. Birks Wendouree '98 Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec
Medium-deep crimson-garnet. Clean, pronounced nose of similar jammy characters – black cherry, plum. A moderate oakiness provided some licorice (and possibly anise) tones, but the high acidity on the palate was clearly evident, and somewhat overwhelmed the plum fruit. The high acidity contributed to an almost sour finish, which was medium-long. This wine could possibly age well, but is certainly not ready at this point of time.
A.P. Birks Wendouree '98 Shiraz Mataro
This was the best wine of the flight. Medium-deep, rusty-mahogany on inspection, this previewed the promise of the style of wines that placed Wendouree on the world wine map. On the nose, this was clearly a choleric wine: raspberry, violets, and cinnamon jostled around with licorice and stewed plum. A good amount of complexity, and this carried itself through to the palate, which was well-rounded, with a full body and a balanced acid-tannin structure that bodes well for laying down. The finish was spicy, with white pepper, and had a good length. Try with leg of lamb, which would nicely complement the completeness of this wine.
A.P. Birks Wendouree '98 Cabernet Sauvignon Mataro
On inspection, this was clear, rusty-brown, with medium-deep intensity. Nosing, it was clean, with a hint of oak and vitriol. Cassis and cherry could be detected, although overall it was a little muted. On entry, the wine was dry, with high tannins and a similar acidity, and the plum fruit somehow gets a little lost in the chemistry. Medium length. Match with sirloin steak, or perhaps a ribeye in reduction sauce.
Date: Dec 17, 2002
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