McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon



The relatively young wines of this region - vintages were '98 and '99 - reflected the atypical style expected from Aussie reds - fruity, not tremendously complex, but certainly very palatable and more often than not, ready to drink, despite their varietal, which generally favours laying down. A minor point to note is that Australian regulations generally require only 70 per cent of the wine to use the labelled grape(s), and 80 per cent of it to hark from the labelled region. The tasting worked with 12 wines that ranged in price from $20-$40. The panel was eventually able to narrow down the field to four outstanding offerings, with perhaps another one of note.

  • Pirramimma '98

    This deep, ruby crimson wine distinguished itself through its excellent balance of appealing flavours coupled with a subtle complexity. On the nose, plummy fruit danced casually with vanilla, liquorice, and smoky hints of oak and capsicum. On the palate, it blossomed into a dry, medium to full-bodied wine, well rounded by flavours of wood, liquorice, and plum. Tannins were moderate, although acidity was surprisingly high, although not overpowering. With a medium length and acidity, the finish was pleasant but unimpressive.

  • Hazelgrove Picture Series '98

    This inky crimson-ruby contribution by Hazelgrove was most surprising on the nose, where its sweet bouquet featured jammy and creamy scents of caramel, honeycomb, and even oyster. On entry, the wine was off dry, although slightly astringent. Here, the fruit character was not entirely distinct, although there was evidence of some black fruit, especially cherry. The medium finish contained some oak, although there was a slight bitterness on closing.

  • Scarpantoni '99

    The clear, light red-brown rusty colour yielded to a nose that leapt out with a sweetness that included liquorice, jams, and blackberry, mingled with tobacco. On entry, the wine was dry, and the medium-full bodied palate leapt with fruit that included plum, blackcurrant, and liquorice. The finish seemed to linger forever, conjuring up images of Cru Beaujolais. With its Parkerised style, this happy wine would appeal to a wide audience.

  • Darenberg Coppermine '98

    This crimson-coloured wine was one of two Darenbergs at the tasting (the other being Darenberg High Trellis '99), and clearly the superior of the two. The luscious, perfumed nose presented stewed fruit that included blackcurrant, plum, sour plums, and mango. On the attack, the wine was off dry, although it worked itself into a medium-bodied offering that had blackberry and candy, especially liquorice. Well rounded by a long finish.

  • Darenberg High Trellis '99

    Although not featured in the final four, this other Darenberg had a nice, fruity nose of cherry and berries, laced with light touches of honey. On the palate, the crimson-coloured wine was dry with medium tannins, and again, the fruit character of black cherry could be found. On the finish lingered warm tropical fruit such as papaya and mango, and the length was appreciable.


Other wines of note

The only other wine of note - not particularly for its presence but rather its absence - is the Fox Creek '98. Although rated highly by Parker, the chemical, nail-varnish nose partnered with super-high tannins to deliver a generally forgettable product. It was redeemed slightly over dinner, where it opened up significantly and was actually palatable with chicken, although the psychological scars left behind by the initial tasting remained.

Date: Aug 14, 2001