Port is generally made from six black varietals, most of which constitute the final blend: Tinta Roritz (the Spanish Tempranillo), Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesca, Tinta Cão, Tinta Barroca, and Sousão. Although the name 'port' takes its moniker from the seaside port Oporto, the grapes are generally grown on steep terraces (socalcos) in the harsh soils (60% slate and granite) and climate of the Duoro Valley, east of Oporto.

The unique style of port derives from its vinification technique. Traditionally, grapes are 'treaded' by the feet of teams of workers, to ensure the maximum extraction of color and tannin over the minimum time. Modern methods now employ autovinifiers and electric pumps as substitutes. The sweetness that characterizes port derives from the residual sugar in the wine - left behind by the cessation of the fermentation process through fortification by grape-based spirit (often, these are overspills from the French or Italian wine lakes).

Commercially available ports can come in as many as nine or more styles, although four of these - ruby, tawny, vintage, and late-bottled vintage - have established themselves more or less as standards. Our style of interest for the purposes of this tasting - the LBV - exhibits wines made from a specific vintage (though not necessarily from 'Declared Years', as required for vintage ports), having been aged for between 4-6 years in cask before bottling. Those bottled earlier would thus continue the maturation process in the bottle and would require decanting. Such wines drink well young and - for those who enjoy a little glass after dinner every night - actually keep well for a few weeks after opening.

The wines tasted for the evening were all sourced from Duoro Valley offerings available in Singapore. The panel worked with 5 LBVs that ranged in price from $35-$60. All save one were from the '95 vintage (the remaining one, the Warre's, was from the '92 vintage). Overall, the panel was extremely satisfied with the overall quality of the offerings, but as always, a few were clear winners.

• Graham's LBV Port '95

  This was a dark, crimson-ruby port that exhibited a nice rim-core blend. Floral scents of geranium and violets were evident from its intense nose, which - true to the nature of port - was also clearly alcoholic. Upon entry, the wine was pleasantly sweet, with a full body that exuding black stone fruit - plum, black cherry, figs. Further probing revealed more subtle characteristics of cinnamon and liquorice on the back palate. A medium-long finish rounded off this happy crowd-pleaser.

• Fonseca LBV Port '95

  The '95 Fonseca, conceivably, was everything that the Graham's was not. On inspection, it was deep crimson, perhaps the deepest of the flight. Yet, the truly distinguishing mark was on the nose - this wine revealed a completely different personality, one that spoke of sweetness reminiscent of butterscotch and licorice, almost hinting sherry. On the palate, the wine was medium-sweet, with medium-strong tannins and surprisingly low acidity for a Portuguese wine. Here, prunes intermingled with other sweet black fruits, and although the wine had a decent finish, one could not help but feel that it was being overshadowed by the sheer power of the Graham's.

• Taylor's LBV Port '95

  Rounding of the cast of the top three wines was the Taylor's '95. Somewhat more subdued in its tone (medium-red with a fairly distinct pink rim), the nose was also more akin to the Fonseca - butterscotch and jammy liquorice overtones; albeit with an undertone of violets that was brought to the fore by the perceptibly lower alcohol levels. On the palate, the wine was medium to sweet, with high tannins. Fruit flavors were perhaps a little masked by the alcohol, although standing in the glass allowed a maturity that afforded plum and more violets. With a medium-long finish, this wine is another possible crowd-pleaser.